#6 Meeting : Jean-Michel Chartron

Is it really necessary to present the Domaine Jean Chartron and its wines, which some still rank among the greatest dry whites in the world? Fourteen small hectares in Puligny-Montrachet, which remains a large area for Burgundy, grouping no less than 18 appellations, the majority of which are Premiers and Grands Crus. The history of the estate and of the eponymous family, now run by Jean-Michel Chartron and his sister Anne-Laure, the fifth generation at the helm of the adventure, is intimately linked to that of the region and to the richness of its terroirs. The reason for this is the geological variety from one parcel to another, but also the climatic variety. There would be more than twenty different expressions of Chardonnay soil, that leaves one wondering. Among the most emblematic, Clos des Chevaliers (Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru) or Clos de la Pucelle (Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru) which are the pride and joy of Domaine Chartron.

It is precisely in a cask that was used to age a Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru that the House of Benjamin Kuentz has aged its latest whisky, Aux Particules Vines, attempting the unprecedented experiment of a finish with wine aromas. An initiative that brings together in a unique way French know-how that had never had the opportunity to “cross paths”, so to speak, that of distillery, cereal growing and wine-making. Jean-Michel Chartron admits that he is sensitive to a dialogue approach, which calls it “this sweet mixture” between man and nature. With only one idea in mind, never force it, never constrain or push the expressiveness of a terroir. At Domaine Chartron, this translates into elegant, fine wines with a restrained opulence. “To create wines with energy and sapidity, yes. But we refuse to make competition beasts. This implies a moderate use of wood during the maturing phase. It does a much better job when you don’t feel it. Real wines, without make-up, a philosophy of delicacy and sincerity that has obviously seduced the young whisky house with literary accents.

Benjamin Kuentz’s request seems to have set a precedent. Jean-Michel Chartron admits that he has been receiving similar requests for some time, particularly from brewers. Even if it is not always possible to respond to the craze of this new trend, this year for example, the harvest was very important and there are no available barrels to offer for the maturing of other alcohols, the man is happy with these initiatives. They undoubtedly express the vitality of know-how that exalts the treasures of nature.